If you’re shopping for an EV, or trying to understand how efficient your current one really is, an electric car efficiency comparison is where the truth lives. Beneath the marketing gloss and range headlines, there are plain numbers that tell you which cars sip electrons and which ones guzzle them like a Hummer at a tailgate.
Efficiency in one sentence
An efficient EV is simply a car that uses fewer kilowatt-hours of electricity to go the same distance. Fewer kWh per 100 miles = lower running costs, smaller environmental footprint, and usually better long‑term range.
Why electric car efficiency comparison actually matters
Range gets all the headlines, but efficiency is what you pay for every month. Two EVs can have similar EPA range, yet one needs 25 kWh of energy to go 100 miles while the other needs 35 kWh. Over tens of thousands of miles, that’s the difference between a thrifty studio apartment and a McMansion power bill.
How wide is the efficiency spread in today’s EVs?
For a used‑EV buyer, efficiency is doubly important. You’re inheriting not just the original engineering, but also years of real‑world battery wear. That’s why every car on Recharged comes with a Recharged Score battery health report, so you can see how much of that original efficiency and range is still there before you buy.
How electric car efficiency is measured: MPGe, kWh/100 mi, mi/kWh
MPGe: the gas‑car translation
MPGe, or miles per gallon equivalent, is the EPA’s attempt to put EVs in gas‑car language. One “gallon” of gasoline is treated as 33.7 kWh of energy. If an EV uses 25 kWh to travel 100 miles, the math works out to roughly 135 MPGe.
- Good for: quick comparison to gasoline MPG
- Bad for: your actual electric bill, no one pays in gallons of anything
kWh/100 mi & mi/kWh: what you actually pay for
Electricity is billed in kilowatt‑hours (kWh). So the most honest unit is simply: how many kWh do you burn to go 100 miles?
- kWh/100 mi: lower is better (like L/100 km)
- mi/kWh: higher is better (like MPG)
Example: a car that uses 25 kWh/100 mi delivers 4.0 mi/kWh. At $0.15/kWh, those 100 miles cost about $3.75.
Turn the window sticker into a power bill
Take the EPA’s kWh/100‑mile number, divide by 100, and multiply by your home rate. If your rate is $0.20/kWh and the car uses 30 kWh/100 mi, each mile costs about 6 cents. That’s your real efficiency comparison.
EV efficiency vs gas cars: the big picture
Internal‑combustion engines are basically rolling bonfires with Bluetooth. In a typical gas car, only about a third of the fuel’s energy reaches the wheels. Modern EV powertrains, by contrast, can convert 70–85% of stored energy into motion. That’s why EPA ratings show 2024 EVs spanning roughly 53–140 MPGe while gasoline cars live between 9–57 MPG for the same model year.
- A 140 MPGe EV is roughly as efficient as a gas car that would need to do 140 MPG, something that simply doesn’t exist in the real world.
- Even a “thirsty” EV at 60 MPGe still beats the average new gasoline SUV on energy use.
- Because electricity is cheaper per unit of energy than gasoline, the cost gap at the pump (or plug) is usually even larger than the MPGe gap.
Most efficient electric cars in 2025 (by the numbers)
If you’re the type who reads nutrition labels on cereal, you’ll appreciate the current leaders. Recent EPA data and independent testing put a handful of EVs at the sharp end of the efficiency spear, especially in sedan form.
Sample of highly efficient EVs on sale (2024–2025)
Representative trims; always confirm the exact configuration’s window sticker, as wheels, motors, and options change the numbers.
| Model & year | Type | Energy use (kWh/100 mi)* | Approx. mi/kWh | EPA combined MPGe* | Notable trait |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lucid Air Pure (2025 RWD) | Sedan | ≈23–24 | ≈4.2–4.3 | High 130s–140s | Luxury sedan that somehow drinks like a subcompact. |
| Hyundai Ioniq 6 SE (2024–2025 RWD) | Sedan | ≈24–25 | ≈4.0–4.2 | Around 140 | Super‑slippery aero and efficient 800‑V platform. |
| Tesla Model 3 Long Range RWD (2025) | Sedan | ≈25 | ≈4.0 | Low‑to‑mid 130s | The efficiency benchmark among mass‑market sedans. |
| Tesla Model Y Long Range RWD (2025) | SUV | ≈27–28 | ≈3.6–3.7 | Mid‑120s | Roomier crossover form factor, small aero penalty. |
| Lexus RZ 300e (2024–2025) | SUV | ≈27 | ≈3.7 | Mid‑120s | Luxury compact SUV that surprised everyone with its frugality. |
| Kia EV6 / Hyundai Kona Electric / Kia Niro EV (2024–2025 RWD) | Crossovers | ≈28–29 | ≈3.4–3.6 | High teens/low 120s | The efficient heartland of the EV market. |
| GMC Hummer EV Pickup/SUV | Truck/SUV | ≈70+ | ≈1.4–1.5 | Under 50 | Off‑the‑charts consumption; think of it as a rolling coal plant with a conscience. |
These numbers are for comparison only and may differ slightly from what you see in your region or for other trims.
Trims matter
Within a single model line the efficiency spread can be huge. Bigger wheels, dual motors, performance packages, and boxier body styles all drag you down. Always compare the exact trim and wheel size you’re considering, especially when shopping used.
What really affects real‑world efficiency
Four things that move your efficiency needle
Same car, same battery, different driver, radically different mi/kWh.
Speed
Above about 60 mph, aerodynamic drag explodes. Cruising at 80 instead of 65 can easily cut your efficiency by 20–30% in many EVs.
Temperature
Cold batteries and cabin heating are efficiency killers. Winter highway drives can use 30–40% more energy than mild‑weather runs.
Battery health
A degraded pack doesn’t necessarily become less efficient, but your usable capacity shrinks, so the same mi/kWh delivers fewer miles of range.
Route & load
Hills, headwinds, cargo, roof boxes, bike racks, everything you hang on the car is a tax on efficiency.
EPA tests vs your life
EPA ratings assume a standardized mix of city and highway driving on a dynamometer. They’re apples‑to‑apples between cars, but they’re not your commute. Treat them as a baseline, then adjust for your climate, speed, and habits.
Practical ways to boost your EV’s efficiency
1. Slow down a little on the highway
Knocking 5–10 mph off your cruise speed is free range. Many owners see their mi/kWh jump noticeably just by living in the right lane.
2. Use seat and wheel heaters before blasting HVAC
Heated surfaces draw far less power than trying to warm or cool the entire cabin with air alone, especially in winter.
3. Precondition while plugged in
If your car supports it, warm or cool the cabin and battery while you’re still charging at home. You’ll start with a happy pack and more range.
4. Check tire pressures monthly
Under‑inflated tires are rolling resistance in disguise. Keep them in the recommended range and avoid ultra‑aggressive off‑road or track‑day tires if you care about efficiency.
5. Go easy on roof boxes & racks
They’re efficiency parachutes. Take them off when you’re not using them, especially on long highway trips.
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Sedan vs SUV vs truck: efficiency comparison by class
Body style is destiny. The same battery and motor in a taller, brickier shape will always fare worse. Think of sedans as distance runners, crossovers as decent all‑rounders, and big trucks as offensive linemen in full pads.
Sedans & hatchbacks
- Typical energy use: ~24–30 kWh/100 mi
- Examples: Hyundai Ioniq 6, Tesla Model 3, Lucid Air, Chevy Bolt (used)
- Best for: Commuters who prioritize low running costs and range.
These are the efficiency heroes. If you mostly drive solo or with one passenger, you’re paying extra to move air and sheetmetal in anything larger.
SUVs & crossovers
- Typical energy use: ~28–35 kWh/100 mi
- Examples: Tesla Model Y, Kia EV6, Hyundai Ioniq 5, VW ID.4, Lexus RZ 300e
- Best for: Families, gear‑haulers, all‑weather drivers.
These live in the sweet spot. Slightly worse on paper, still cheap to run versus gas, with far more space and ground clearance.
Trucks & heavyweight SUVs
- Typical energy use: ~45–75+ kWh/100 mi
- Examples: Ford F‑150 Lightning, Silverado EV, Rivian R1T/R1S, GMC Hummer EV
- Best for: People who genuinely need towing and payload.
Here efficiency goes on vacation. If you mainly commute in stop‑and‑go traffic, a big e‑truck is like wearing ski boots to the office.
The Hummer EV problem
The GMC Hummer EV famously uses north of 70 kWh to go 100 miles. That’s three times the energy of a Lucid Air or Ioniq 6. If you don’t tow, over‑buying truck is the fastest way to sabotage your energy bills, and your charging stops.
Used EV efficiency: battery health, degradation, and the Recharged Score
When you buy a new EV, you get the full factory‑fresh capacity and the official EPA numbers. Buy used, and you’re asking a different question: how much of that original battery is still in fighting shape? A car that started life with 280 miles of range but now delivers 230 hasn’t suddenly become inefficient in mi/kWh, it simply has less usable energy on board.
- Most modern EV packs degrade slowly, often retaining 80–90% capacity after 8–10 years if they’ve been treated well.
- Fast charging all the time, baking in heat, or living at 100% charge can accelerate that loss.
- A car with 10–15% capacity loss will feel like it “uses more energy,” but what’s really changed is how far each kWh takes you in absolute miles before you have to recharge.
Where Recharged fits in
Every vehicle listed on Recharged includes a Recharged Score battery health report. We run specialized diagnostics to measure real pack capacity and health, not just what the dash claims. That way you can compare a 2019 Model 3 and a 2021 Kona Electric on equal footing, efficiency stats plus verified remaining battery life.
How to compare electric car efficiency like a pro
You don’t need a PhD in thermodynamics to do a smart electric car efficiency comparison. You just need a system. Here’s a simple playbook you can run on anything from a used Leaf to a Lucid Air.
Step‑by‑step: comparing EV efficiency for a purchase
1. Start with kWh/100 mi, not just range
Range is a product of pack size; kWh/100 mi is the diet. A 77‑kWh car that uses 25 kWh/100 mi is more efficient than a 100‑kWh car that uses 30 kWh/100 mi, even if the latter goes farther overall.
2. Normalize for body style and mission
Compare sedans to sedans, crossovers to crossovers, trucks to trucks. If you truly need an SUV, the relevant question isn’t “Is it as efficient as a Model 3?” but “Is it more efficient than other SUVs I’m cross‑shopping?”
3. Check wheel size, motors, and options
Look for the specific trim on the EPA label: RWD vs AWD, 18‑ vs 21‑inch wheels, standard vs performance. Those details can swing efficiency by 10–20%.
4. Factor in your real electricity rate
Grab a bill. If your blended rate is $0.25/kWh, a car at 25 kWh/100 mi costs about 6.25 cents per mile; at 35 kWh/100 mi, you’re at 8.75 cents. Over 15,000 miles a year, that’s roughly $375 difference, every year.
5. For used EVs, get battery health in writing
Ask for a real diagnostic, not just a dashboard guess. On <a href="/">Recharged</a>, the Recharged Score makes this simple: you see an objective battery health grade before you ever sign paperwork.
6. Consider charging behavior and lifestyle
If you DC fast‑charge constantly on road trips, a larger but slightly less efficient battery might suit you. If you mostly commute locally and charge at home, lean toward cars that sip energy, even if their packs are smaller.
Efficiency vs price vs range
The sweet spot for most buyers is a car that’s pretty efficient and fairly priced, not necessarily the single most frugal EV on Earth. Moderate efficiency, solid battery health, and a realistic range for your life will beat spec‑sheet perfection every time.
FAQ: electric car efficiency comparison
Frequently asked questions about EV efficiency
Key takeaways for your next EV
Electric car efficiency isn’t a niche stat for spreadsheet people; it’s the quiet force that shapes your monthly costs, your charging stops, and how happy you’ll be living with an EV five years from now. When you compare electric cars, focus less on the billboard range number and more on kWh per 100 miles, body style, and real battery health.
- Use kWh/100 miles (or mi/kWh) as your primary yardstick; MPGe is just the translation into gas‑car language.
- Compare like with like, sedans vs sedans, SUVs vs SUVs, trucks vs trucks, and don’t let a boutique efficiency king distract you from what actually fits your life.
- When shopping used, insist on real battery diagnostics. The best‑engineered car in the world is only as good as the pack it’s carrying today.
- If you want a simple path: pick an EV that’s reasonably efficient, has a clean battery health report, and fits your lifestyle. That combination will age better than chasing a single headline number.
If you’re ready to put these numbers to work, browse used EVs on Recharged. Every car comes with a Recharged Score battery health report, fair‑value pricing, financing options, and EV‑savvy support that will happily walk you through the efficiency math before you ever schedule a test drive.
